Monday, December 26, 2011

How to Choose a Tractor

!±8± How to Choose a Tractor

Finding the best tractor that suits your needs can be easier than you might think. Here are a few simple steps to follow as you look at tractors

You first need to determine your needs and figure out what you need your tractor to do. Do you have an acre or two that needs mowed once or twice a week, or do you need a tractor for mowing, towing, snow plowing, carrying items, gardening or harvesting fields? Be sure to get enough tractor so that it will be able handle the attachments you are going to use

Diesel or Gas?

Do you need a gasoline or diesel powered tractor? For most residential, mowing applications gasoline powered tractors are the way to go. If you have more than five acres and plan on doing some plowing, hauling, heavier mowing and adding any attachments then diesel is probably the tractor of choice.

Lawn Tractors

Lets look first at your average lawn mower. Something that will be pretty much be used for mowing and nothing else. Your average "lawn tractor" can range anywhere from 00 - 00 and range from 15HP- 25HP with gasoline engines. Good reliable used lawn mowers can be purchase from a few hundred dollars up to 00 depending on age and condition. Some of the higher HP model lawn tractors can also be used for occasional snow plowing and other heavier tasks but are best suited for mowing with or without a grass catcher and pulling a cart. Most all lawn tractors are belt driven with limited parts availability and are designed to last a short period of time.

Garden Tractors & Compact Tractors

Next lets look at property owners that have 3 - 15 acres and the need for plowing, gardening, mowing, cutting and loading. In my opinion we have two classes of tractor we can look at here. You can consider a "garden tractor" or a "compact tractor". A garden tractor is a tractor that is really a lawn tractor with a heavier built to it and with the capability of some attachments like a tiller, a blade, snowblower and larger mower decks (usually 54in - 60in decks). Most garden tractors are also shaft driven and can last for many years if properly maintained and not pushed beyond their limits. They can be gasoline or diesel. They usually sell new for 00 - 000 with a mowing deck,and can be purchased used for 00 - 00 depending on condition.

My personal recommendation for this scenario would be a "compact tractor". A compact tractor is basically a miniature tractor with full size tractor capabilities such as mowing, cutting, loading, digging, tilling, plowing and hauling. They have diesel engines ranging in size from 15HP - 30HP. Most of them have full hydraulics, 4WD, mid and rear PTO's, high and low range, roll over protection and are built to work. They have a life expectancy of up to 30 plus years if properly maintained. Parts are readily available. These compact tractors can handle many implements like large belly mowers up to 72in., rear mowers, tillers, blades, loaders, plows, backhoes, sweepers and more. The reliability of these tractors makes for a great used tractor. A new compact tractor with a mower can range from 000 - 000, depending on the size and model. Great used compact tractors can be found for as low as 00.

Farm Tractors

If farming is in your future and you have many acres to tend to, you are best advised to consult with a dealer or fellow farmer before making a purchase. There are many, many choices when it comes to large tractors and farming equipment and it is best to make sure you get the right equipment the first time as these tractors can be a very large investment. Once you have the specifics you need, then search for a new or used tractor that will meet your exact needs for HP, and capabilities.

Pricing

Before you get sticker shock, realize that tractor purchases are long term commitments and that with proper maintenance and use they can last for 30 years or more. When you consider the life span and work they do, the prices will seem reasonable.

Attachments can also seem expensive as well. A loader for example will cost 00 - 00. A simple blade can run 0 - 0.

Once you have a tractor and some attachments, you'll wonder how you ever did without them. I remember when I purchased my compact Kubota several years ago. I took my wife with me and I bought a 60in mower and a loader with it. When my wife saw the price she about died! Since we've owned it, she has on many occasion told me that it has been such a great thing to have. We only have 5 acres but get so much use from the loader. I don't know what we ever did without it!

Gray Market Tractors

Because good used tractors are so reliable, there is a high demand and a relatively low supply of them and good used tractors sell very quickly. A tempting way of saving money is buying an "off-brand" tractor or a gray market tractor. These are usually imported machines designed for use in other markets, being sold semi-legally here. While they can be much cheaper than standard tractors, there are a couple of significant drawbacks.

One is that the PTO systems are not always compatible with US standards. Many of them do not have a mid PTO which is needed if you want a belly mower. A second issue is parts availability. It can be difficult or impossible to find replacement parts here if it's a model designed for use in other markets.

What ever you do, make sure you buy a tractor that will do what you need it to. The worst thing you can do is to push the equipment beyond it capabilities. It not only significantly shortens the life span but can be dangerous as well.

Before making your purchase, do your research. Check with other owners, dealers, web forums and manufactures sites for information. When your ready to make the purchase be sure to check here with Tractor Shopper for deals on your next new or used tractor!


How to Choose a Tractor

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Monday, December 12, 2011

Hay! Make Good Mulch

!±8± Hay! Make Good Mulch

I would challenge you to find a culture that has not used hay (in all forms) for mulch and other gardening chores. There are many ways to use hay for composting. Here are a few ideas...

Have you EVER wondered (read struggled) to figure out what to do with the left over corn stalks? Think about it for one minute... All that green and all that tough fiber that corn 'builds' as it is creating those wonderfully sweet kernels. There has just GOT to be something left in those 'leftovers' to go back into the ground. I do not know about you, but I have chopped (by hand, with a machete), I have torn apart, I have stomped on, I have ripped my fingers, I have pulled my hair.... There IS an easier way. Bury them. Yes, bury them, with HAY. Then let them sit all winter. When spring comes, stick a shovel down into that rotting mess and stick a seedling in it. You would be surprised at the result. The roots will intertwine, the worms will come out to play. And you have reduced your workload to practically nil... in my book, that is a win/win situation.

With the hours I keep, (sound familiar?) our fall 'clean-up' amounts to leaving everything that was growing right where it lays, and covering it all with hay. (usually the bales I use to do my fall decorating... it is my favorite time to decorate.) It does not take a lot, even four or five inches deep, old man winter will lay it ground level by spring. (Hint: I had grass clipping piled to my waist, and four months later, it was four inches thick) You can usually plant seeds right in it by spring. Peas and cabbage, potatoes especially! Not only does it save you work (like THAT idea?;) But it enables you to make full use of intensive planting techniques.

Look ma! NO WEEDS!! Can anyone say 'FAR OUT"? Hay is a awesome alternative to weeding. Instead of pulling unwanted plants out of the ground, and disturbing the roots of every other living thing around it, bend the weeds flat and cover them with hay.

Ever hear of the 'no till' method of planting? It was created by farmers with too much leftover hay. (I am SO kidding!;) Pile some hay on the area you want to plant next spring and you will find the area completely ready to plant without pulling that heavy noisy, gas fueled tiller out once. It is possible to plant any kind of crop the following year without disturbing the sod. Ruth Stout (did you not read about her in Mother Earth News?) says that spading, plowing and cultivating are all completely unnecessary, and do more harm than good. She says if a heavy hay cover is laid on even the toughest ground in the summer, plantings can be made in it the following spring. No other preparation of the soil is required. (I LIKE that idea)

Cabbage, tomatoes and other transplanted seedlings are exceedingly easy to put out in hay. Use a string to mark the row, (if you tend to get things crooked like I do) and a box to carry your seedlings, and you can plant almost as fast as you can meander... stick your shovel down to make a break in the (what is now soft decaying matter) gently place your seedling into it, pat it in with your foot, and move on to the next. Why I will bet you could set 100 seedlings in a half hour without breaking a sweat. And they will grow splendidly, too!

My FAVORITE plant to grow in hay... can you guess? I will give you a hint. If you have ever bit into one that still had some dirt on it... YES, I am talking about potatoes. You can grow the BEST potatoes in the world and be the envy of all your gardening friends by laying the eyes on top of the leftovers of last year's hay mulch. Lay them out and cover them with hay. That us IT. You can increase your yield a tad by adding some well rotted manure to this mix. I just cannot say enough about this method of growing potatoes. My father taught me to do it. The potatoes are clean and easy to harvest. Depending on how closely you plant them, you can easily inspect them for pests. (The fancy term is integrated pest management) And I do not know if you have this compulsion to see how they are 'coming along' but I know I do. It is quite easy to pull the hay back without disturbing the growth of the potato, and 'take a peek'.

After you have used hay mulch regularly for a few years, you can practically forget all about pH problems with your soil. And you can altogether forget about using poisonous chemical 'fertilizers' and (yawn...) 'soil conditioners' as it would be like throwing gasoline on a fire. There is nothing I do not grow with hay mulch and I barely made my way thru biology and chemistry. I do not really WANT to knowwhy a base causes this to happen or why ions are released or held onto. I just want to grow good healthy plants to feed my family nutritiously. And adequate organic matter acts as a practical buffer and helps to neutralize the extremes of pH in any soil. (I DID retain that much from my studies...;)

Do your feet get cold in the winter? When your feet get cold and wet, would it help to wrap them in plastic? (you know.. keep the wet IN?) Stacking up a heavy hay mulch onto the cold wet garden in the early spring is not a good way to start. Hay is a 'slow burn'. It is not especially good for the short term. If hay has not had a chance to compost all winter (you know... ROT) it won't do much more than keep the cold and the wet in. If you have got hay to use, wait till the soil temperature warms up and use it as a mulch. You can move things along by adding some rotted manure or compost to it, but it takes time. Do not hurry your garden....

Lots of hay bales always makes me feel rich. Do not ask me why. It is crazy I know but I feel some weird form of security from them. I use them to create borders. I use them to kill grass. I use them to set pretty potted plants on and make arrangements. I use them to stick my fork in when I am too lazy to take it to the garage. I use them to sit on... well, I think you get the idea. And yes, eventually they rot. There is nothing more in this world that I like spreading around better than a well rotted bale of hay. (no wonder I am still single after all these years...) The earth worms love 'em. And if I ever need a few, I know straight where to go to find them... okay. I think I have run out of ideas for you and now I am just rambling.

I hope that I have convinced you of the value of hay composting. It was my intention. It is easy, cheap, and it is NOT labor intensive. It IS sustainable. That is MY way to garden!


Hay! Make Good Mulch

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011


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